Khonshu – MoonKnight Costume, Mask and Props How-To

I decided to make Khonshu’s costume from the Marvel series Moon Knight!

  Khonshu
Supplies NeededTools Needed
Fabric for Duster-Vest and skirt (I bought 5 yrds to be safe and have extra)
Duct Tape (for patterns)
Stock Paper (for your patterns)
Crayola Modeling Clay
Paints (Deep Gold, white and black)
Glue Gun Sticks
Plaster of Paris
Foam 1.5"
Foam 3"
Strofoam Head
Glass Head
Morphe Suit Mask (black and needs to be see through)
Lots of Gauze (amazon has them in bulk)
Mummy base costume - (It runs small)
Belts (Stretchy x2 ; in Bandage colored on Amazon)
Heavy long sewing needles (or sewing machine)
Glue Gun
Paint Brushes
Box Cutter / Exacto Knife (Extra blades!)
Safety Glasses
Scissors
Sewing pins
6 foot Pole/PVC Pipe
Spray Paint (Slate/Grey/Oynx, Silver, Gold, and clear gloss)
Resin
Resin coloring (Black/Oynx, Maroon and Gold)
Silicone mold of a Cresent Moon

Debuted at: San Diego Comic-Con 2022

Step 1 – Making the Patterns

I used heavy paper to draw and cut out my patterns, for Khonshu’s skull / head.
Measuring your head from your chin to your forehead will give you an idea of how big the patterns need to be.
Also measure the circumfrance of your head for the base.

You will also need to make a pattern for a Vest Duster. I found this does not need to be perfect, as it is very worn out and tatterd. I found some fabric that had holes already and made my duster out of that. It was grey fabric, so I used “irvory” spray paint to make it look lighter, if you spray farther away it won’t make the fabric sticky or hard. 🙂

     

I will be selling the patterns soon, and links will be available here!

Step 2 – Making the Foam Base / Attaching the pattern to test

You will need to make a “bucket base” to build off of. I used the tutorial from xxForeverFaithxx on YouTube.
The only part I would change for Khonshu would be not gluing the lef/right side of base to the mask due to Khonshu’s large eye sockets.
Also make sure you cut eye and nose holes so you can breathe and be comfortable in the mask.
Once you have the bucket base created, attach your Khonshu patter to the mask using sewing pins to make sure everything fits properly.

   

Step 3 – Cutting the 3″ Foam and attaching the Mask

Once you cut the final pieces, again use the pins to attach and test before you start gluing!
LET IT DRY, then try it on to see how everything looks/feels.

The mask above also failed. Used the same pattern, but used EVA Foam for the entire process and glued together. Once that was set used Modeling Foam all over the mask to smooth it out. It needs 24hr to set/dry, but then was able to paint the mask.

Step 4 – Adding layers to the mask for dimision

At this point you can add more defined cheekbones and eyebrows to make some defiintion and dimensions to the mask.

Step 5 – Start gluing the fabric to the mask in layers

Time to finish up gluing on any pieces to the mask!!!

Step 6 – Start adding expanding foam / Pouring resin

I added the expanding foam in layers. Once you spray it on, give it 3min, then you can start using your hands to manipulate the foam into the shapes you need/want.
Depending on what brand you use, it will need time to dry and set before you can start using a knife/blade to shape it better.
This will take some time, so prepare yourself! It’s also very messy, so make sure you do this in a well ventailated area!

While this was drying, I poured my resin into the mold so that would have time to set. I mixed a few resin colors to get this result.

 

When it was set and hardened, I used a rag with gold paint on it to smear around for more dimension.

Step 7 – Adding the Plaster of Paris

Time to add the final layer! This will help the paint adhere better to the mask. You can work in layers. I added 3 light layers to cover all imprefections.
I used 160 and 80 grit sand paper to sand it down once the plaster set.

Step 8 – Sanding down

This will also take A LOT of time! Using a sanding machine can help reduce some time, but smaller areas you will need to manually sand down.

Step 9 – Prep for painting

I used a moist paper towel to get off any leftover sanding, before I started to paint.
Make sure evreything is dry before you start painting the first layer!

Step 10 – Spraypaint the Staff/PVC Piece

I used a metallic oynx to paint 2 layers on my staff. It created a slight glittery effect, then I added a very light layer of shiney/glittery brown to add some “worn out” dimensions.
I then sprayed gold spray paint on a rag and wiped it on the staff to add some more color and a worn out affect.

Step 11 – Cutting out a cresent moon shape for staff / scythe

I used a very large bowl to make a crescent moon shape, and cut it out on 1.5in thick cardboard. I then added expanding foam the same way I did on the mask, using my hands to mold it around my moon shape. I allowed that a day to dry, then cut it down to make it flatter. Once I was happy with the shape and look, I added 2 layers of plaster of paris.
I then was able to sand that down until I achieved the look that I was going for. This took a while to get everything smooth and even, so be patient.

 

This process failed as well, and the moon was too heavy 🙁 We wound up using the 3D Printer to print the Scythe. It held up for the entire con up until getting in the car!

Step 12 – Painting the pieces for the staff / scythe ; Putting it together!

I did the same thing and used a metallic oynx to paint 2 layers, added more of the brown in spots, then wiped on the gold for dimensions.

I had to use more heavy paper/cardboard to make the other pieces on his staff. I couldnt find many reference pictures, as google did not have many 🙁
So use your imagination and do the best you can!

Step 13 – Belt and Skirt

I used the same fabric as the Duster for the skirt.
To make the belt buckle we also used a 3D Printer and printed the entire piece.

I then hand-painted the piece and used heavy duty velcro to attach to the stretch belt.

Step 14 – Adding more fabric layers to the costume base

I purchased a mummy costume on Amazon that had some decent reviews. The sizing was way off, but the costume was well made and looked good!
I added a ton of gauze to add more dimension and add a little more to the costume to make it look like Khonshu. I spray painted the gauze with the same colors from the staff and crescent moon, to make them look old and worn-out. Get creative!

Step 15 – Attaching the Resin Moon to the costume

I used one of the “bandage colored belts” to attach the moon around the costume and buckle in the back. I then draped some of the bandages to hide the belt and add more worn-out look to the top.

FINALE!

Try it on and see if you need to add anything in any other areas!
If you follow this tutorial, tag me on instagramn so I can see it!! 🙂 (@animesector)

Estimated Cost: $90.00
Estimated Time to Complete Project: 11 hours

Your estimated cost may differ if you do not already own all the tools needed to complete this project

Star vs. The Forces of Evil


Eclipsa’s Wand Tutorial



Supplies NeededTools Needed
Umbrella
Duct Tape
Stock Paper
EVA Foam (Different Sizes and Thickness)
Thin wood
LED Battery Operated Light Set
Clear Ornament Balls (Different Sizes)
BARGE Cement Glue
Purple/Black Lace Ribbon
Crayola Hardening Clay
Paints (Assorted Colors: Black, Purples, White)
Wood Glue
Diamond Ring Shot Glasses
Soldering Iron
Glue Gun
Paint Brushes
Dremel (With numerous attachments)
Sander / Sanding Paper
Box Cutter / Exacto Knife
Safety Glasses
Face Mask

Step 1 – Larger Ornament

Order, or pick up all the supplies needed! Personally, I found everything on Amazon and ordered a bunch of Clear Ornaments assorted sizes to work with. Eclipsa’s wand has 2 balls at the top, one inside one another. For me, I liked using the ornaments because you can open them and use them to house the wires and electronic pieces if you choose to have your wand light up. This also makes it easy to change out the batteries or lights when needed. You will need to use the soldering iron to melt off the hanging part of the plastic ornaments. Make sure you use a mask as melting plastic is toxic!

I found that using wood glue helps the final paint to attach and not peel the projects, and I painted the inside of one of the ornament halves. I painted the entire piece, so you can’t see the wires when completed. I used a light pastel purple, so the lights would have a purple effect when lit. You may need a couple of layers and will need to sand when you have it looking the way you like.

Let the layers dry before you add more, otherwise, it will start to look blotchy. Once you have it the way you want it, you can paint the outside. Proceed to paint it black to blend with the umbrella itself. Once they are dry you can put them aside to work on the next pieces.

Step 2 – The Wings

Start by drawing out the wings. You can free-hand them, or try to print out a picture and trace them, and use a box cutter to cut out the pieces. Make sure you have nice clean edges, as these will be the final piece. Sanding them down is also a good option. I then traced my pattern onto the thin wood and cut them out with the Dremel. Then, I painted both wings black. Also, you can add a gloss when they dry if you want a shinier finish.

Step 3 – Inside the larger ornament

Using the EVA Foam, make a ring (think like Saturns planet ring), to fit around the smaller plastic ornament and painted this a pastel purple. Then paint the plastic ornament ball completely black, the LED lights will be housed behind this. Double check to ensure there are no blotchy spots, as they will shine through. Once everything is dried, I used my BARGE Cement Glue and attached the ring to the ball and set it aside.

Step 4 – Bottom of the Umbrella

Grab 2 of the shot glass diamond rings, and take them off the plastic ring piece. Grab 2 of the diamond cup bottoms, and sand them down. Paint a few layers of wood glue on them, and then sand them down until they are nice and smooth. While at Michaels Crafts, I was able to find some iridescent spray paint and painted them to give them a touch of bling.

Step 5Making Clay Pieces

Go ahead and grab the Crayola clay and start by making a small ball for the bottom of the umbrella handle, right above the jewel piece. Once you have the right size, set it aside for 24-48 hours until it hardens.

Now, start molding a crescent moon for the top of the umbrella. This will go directly on top of the larger ornament. Set this aside when you are happy with the size. Make sure they harden completely before painting them. This clay dries fairly quickly, and the pieces are super light as to not weigh you down.

Step 6 – Getting the pieces together

Here comes the part where you need all the patience in the world. Ensure all your pieces and paint are 100% dry. Connect the glue gun and start heating up the glue sticks.

Get the smaller ornament with the ring around it, and you will carefully use the soldering iron to melt a hole into the top and bottom so you can slide it onto the umbrella. When the correct size is made, use the hot glue gun to attach the ornament to the top of the umbrella.

Also, you will also need to solder the larger outside ornament the same and attach to the umbrella. This will create the illusion needed for her want. Do not attach both larger ornaments just yet, as you will need to place the lights and battery inside. For me personally, I was able to run my LED set below the ornament so I can replace the batteries once they die. (See below for reference). At this point, it is safe to glue the half moon piece on top of the larger ball.

Set the umbrella aside and let it dry.

Step 7 – Wrapping Up

Start by getting both the shot glass pieces and gluing them together with the umbrella pole in the middle. Holding the pieces for a few moments to ensure they don’t pop off or come loose may be needed.

Do the same with the smaller ball below the diamond piece and allow to dry. Lastly (optional), you can glue on the lace to the bottom part of the umbrella to add some features. 

Estimated Cost: $45.00
Estimated Time to Complete Project: 11 hours

Your estimated cost may differ if you do not already own all the tools needed to complete this project.